Week 10 – Singapore

Sawadi-ka! I am currently writing this from my hostel in Phuket as I have a few hours to kill before I head to Khao Sok for a few days and then potentially off to Koh Phangan. I am not entirely sure when I will get to blog again, so here’s an update on my trip to Singapore while it’s fresh. You’re welcome! 

Well I completely fell in love with Singapore. What a country, what an infastructure! Like the wordsmith I am, I described it in my journal as “fucking sweaty but amazing”. Such a fascinating country, truly. I feel quite chuffed with myself actually because I really feel like I’ve got to see a fair bit, and managed to immerse myself as much as possible within 4 days, which realistically isn’t a lot, but I TRIED. I’ve never been anywhere where despite an obvious complex history, there’s such harmony between religions and racial groups. Singapore really prides itself off this, and you can see why. The four main groups are Chinese, Malay, Tamil and Euroasians and as the taxi driver earlier described to me “Discrimination based on skin colour isn’t a thing here”. Now obviously I have no idea how true this is, but from the Singaporeans I’ve met the last few days, there seems to be a feeling that what makes Singapore the place it is, is the diversity and the blending of cultures. Someone I met said “Where else do you have a mosque next door to a temple?!” Now that’s not to say there isn’t a darkness that comes with this, as a guy I went on a Hinge date with (more on this) said “Singapore is built on the backs of migrant workers” and as I was driving out to my hike to the Harbourside, you can see hundreds of men sleeping under the walkways. The living conditions of these workers are apparently pretty appalling. After Singapore split from Malaysia in the 60’s, the “founding father” created an infrastructure so quickly it’s actually kind of hard to believe that this island has moved so fast. You have Little India, Chinatown, Kampong Glam, and so many other amazing cultural areas, many with some rare low rise buildings that are under strict rules to never be touched in order to preserve their heritage. Since it’s such a small island, they have to utilise the space smartly, and they are clearly doing that with many underground systems in place. I guess if you don’t have the space, you have to build either up or down. Despite how green it is, and how much they are pushing the dial forward with its infrastructure, I’ve also had some not-so-pleasant conversations about how controlled the media is and how society itself is pretty controlled. I mean you can’t protest, like apparently if you wore a placard around your neck, within minutes you’d be arrested which is obviously terrible. The UK is clearly taking note with the Public Order Bill 🙂 Although the Singapore government has designated one section of the entire country where you can protest, you have to have a permit though. The irony. I’ve had some really amazing conversations with people the last few days, learning about a place through the eyes of other people has been wonderful. 

Anyhoo, let’s get back to my arrival in the Green City! So I arrived at Changi Airport at about 8:30pm. I was feeling slightly flappy as it was the first time in a while that I didn’t have a sim card for the country I was in, and I wasn’t planning on getting one since Singapore is renowned for being extortionate (let me tell you this LIVED up to the expectation!!! Shout out to my Monzo card!!!!!!). But, as is the way in Singapore, everything is sign-posted absolutely beautifully and I meandered out of the airport following the glorious signs all the way to the bus stop, hopping on the 33 (a simple tap in and out) all the way to my hostel, Betel Box. The transport systems are ridiculously good and completely affordable (also priced off distance travelled) so I think this particular journey to my hostel cost me about 70p. I was also feeling pretty smug as I was about to book myself a Grab (taxi) but I’d managed to navigate the journey without data. How amazing am I?! Seriously!!!!! Anyhoo, I arrived at my hostel only to find that I was in a 5 bed female dorm and they weren’t bunk beds, we each had our own single bed on ONE level. Could this day get any better?! It’s amazing what you can find the joy in when you’re away, and not being in a bunk bed is definitely something. I went on a mission to get some cash dollar money out to get food from the market, but to no avail as the ones I’d found weren’t working. Sadly I had to settle on a blueberry bun and banana milk from 7/11 like the big ginger baby I am. Not quite the meal I was after, but in this life you just have to make do with what you have, and I had no Singaporean dollars, and a 7/11. 

I woke up the next morning and enjoyed the free breakfast at the hostel. I went super Singaporean and had peanut butter and jam on toast. I was so excited for my first day here, I couldn’t wait to walk the streets, intermittently listen to my music, drink coffee, pretend I am in a music video or a rom com, you know the vibe guys. First up, after spending £6 on a coffee from a chic looking spot opposite my hostel (described by my Hinge date as a “white person coffee shop” – turns out there are way cheaper places with better coffee) I head to Bugis Junction to replace my 8 year old Birkenstocks. They’ve done me well, but it was time to say goodbye. Big up Madre for my early birthday present of cute new brown Birks – God love you woman! Stepping out in style, I spent the next few hours mooching. First up I went to the National Library and stumbled across an exhibition filled with artefacts from Singapore over the years, and a rundown of the country’s history, particularly from the early 1800’s where it became a British Colony and then through to WW2 and its occupation by Japan, and then its independence from Malaysia in the 60’s and how it became a BOOMING nation. Get it Singapore. There’s obviously a very rich and complex pre-colonial history, but I just don’t know enough about that so I will leave it there. Anyway, next up was China town, it had been over an hour so naturally it was time for my next meal. I found a Hong Kong Pastry shop and stuffed my face with a chicken bun. Gorgeous. I wandered around the Hawker Market next door and then crossed over to go and see the famous Buddha Tooth Relic Temple. It was one hell of a temple! I’d managed to time it so I saw the chanting of the Sutras (Buddhist scriptures) by the Monks/Nuns and it was an amazing thing to witness. I need to google this properly but I was completely fascinated by the descriptions of the 18 levels of hell, which I think, from what I could work out, are a mix of Chinese mythology and Buddhisn. It just felt incredibly severe and surprisingly violent, for example Level 16: Hell of the Mountain of Fire, where thieves, robbers, and the corrupt will be repeatedly thrown into the fiery pits of an active volcano, or Level 12: Hell of Mortars and Pestles, where those who voluntarily waste food will repeatedly be force-fed hell fire by demons. Just not what I was expecting in a Buddhist temple, but to be honest wasting food is really bad and being force fed fire would definitely teach you a lesson. Sssss.

Next up I got the train down to Bayside to see the Gardens by the Bay. They are bloody amazing. Sat there for a little bit and took it all in. Maraid had set me up with her friend Ziqq who she did her Masters with, and he very kindly came and met me for the afternoon. We walked all around the Marina together, chit chatting about life/Singapore/London. He very kindly got me back onto the bus (still no sim card x) and back home safe and sound in no time. Feeling pretty peckish on my way home, I’d heard about an Indian restaurant by the hostel so I stopped there on the way home for a cheese paratha. Got chatting to the owner and the conversation went a little something like this:

Him: “How old are you?”

Me: “27! What about you?”

Him: “How old do you think I am?”

Me: “Oh God I hate this game! 40?”

Him: “52!!!”

Me: “Wow. You don’t look 52! Do I look 27?”

Him: “No.”

Me: “Ah.”

Him: “You look 30.”

Devastating.

That evening I ended up going for dinner and drinks with a girl from my hostel, a 23 year old from LA who was perfectly nice 🙂 I had wonton soup for dinner and a margarita for dessert. I also had ice cream for dessert actually, to be specific I had a scoop of strawberry and basil ice cream, and a scoop of mint and cacao from somewhere called Birds of Paradise. I was a little shocked to see this had cost me £8, in fact I was astounded, but it was pretty special. 

The next morning I had planned to do the Southern Ridges Hike. I was pretty excited about this and was in the mood to sweat, and BOY DID I! No one told me how HUMID it is here?! I was definitely thrown a curveball with this. I spent the next 3 hours covered in a film of sweat. I got the bus down to the Harbour and started my walk through the lovely Mount Faber Park, across the bridge to Telok Blangah Hill Park, through Hort Park via a canopy footpath and then ending in Kent Ridge Park. This whole walk is pretty much green and has been built with walkways through community gardens and over the canopies. Totally stunning! I think because it was basically raining the entire time, no one else seemed to fancy the hike, so during the entire 3 hours I maybe saw like 2 other walkers. It gave me a lovely opportunity to strut my stuff to Raye’s album (I am obsessed, truly). When I woke up and saw it was raining, I couldn’t help but feel a bit relieved to have some respite from the sunshine. I know, I’m a knob, too much sun?! I know guys, I know. I will say though, 31 degrees in that kind of humidity was pretty intense, I felt like a slug under my clothes, slippin’ and slidin’ through the parks of Singapore. Anyway, I hopped on the bus home, got myself another Paratha (egg and onion this time) and started to think about how I wanted to spend my evening. Another interesting experience occurred that evening, a real stonker. So, for the first time on my trip (and definitely the last), I thought that maybe this might be a nice time to go on a Hinge date. I had a swipe, and ended up matching with a good looking guy called S*** (I don’t want to name him in case I get sued for defamation). 33, 6ft 1, good looking, seemed nice. He was quite forward by text which I am always a little put off by before meeting someone, but what did I have to lose?! I had no other plans, and I thought it would be fun, hot girl summer and all that. Well, I don’t want to go into too much detail as this is a family friendly blog, but my sweet baby Jesus what an interesting guy/evening/experience/time to reflect on who I am and what I want. So it turns out this guy was part of a church called The Hand of God up until he was 26. When I say a part of, I mean he was a leader in it, he had a significant role and it was a huge part of his life. Some of the stories from this part of his life were honestly completely wild, and safe to say (his words as well) that he was fully part of a religious cult. I mean in all seriousness it’s actually very sad, these kids are completely manipulated and it sounds like it’s just all about power and control. Anyway, he was telling me lots and lots of stories, why he’d decided to leave, how he left, how he’s made up for “lost time”. Hours passed and so did an entire beer tower. It was only at this point he filled me in on the fact that he’d picked a bar next to his flat. I think I’ll leave the story here, but it’s safe to say I’m not sure I’ve come away from an evening being more furious at some men’s fucking AUDACITY. Another one of those occasions when I miss having a friend with me to debrief. 

The next day, slightly groggy from the tower of beer, I decided to carpe the freakin’ diem and get myself to the botanical gardens. They were absolutely beautiful, and just what I needed. I mooched around them for hours with a lemon iced tea having a debrief with myself. Being away on my own like this means I have definitely got better at placating myself. I’m typically so hard on myself, but when I see myself going that way, I think I’ve got a little better at switching the berating tone to something a little softer. It’s just me and me out here, so I may as well be nice to myself. Plus, I am actually quite great? After a good mooch, I headed back into Chinatown for some much needed dumplings and noodles. I ate the most delicious pork noodles and duck dumplings, with a plum Pu Erh which is a fermented tea. I don’t think I like fermented tea 🙂 Loving being in nature, I headed over to Fort Canning park to sit under a tree and read my book, Julia Roberts style. Interestingly this was the spot where Singapore surrendered to Japan in the 40s. I remember feeling a bit guilty because I was sitting under what was clearly quite a famous tree as there were loads of people taking pictures. I didn’t move though so I obviously didn’t feel that guilty. I also took about 50 selfies here because the light was creme de la creme, and when you find the light (or it finds you?) then you have to utilise it. That evening I was off to watch the light show at Gardens by the bay. They have a famous light show twice in the evening and the theme of this one was ‘Journey through Asia’. I found a spot, pitched up, lay down and spent 15 minutes in awe! It was truly incredible, and I fully felt like I was in Crazy Rich Asians. I met a girl called Silke from my dorm and her friend Kenny for drinks afterwards. There’s also a light show at Marina Bay so we’d found a lovely little Mexican restaurant on the bay and spent an extortionate amount on a jug of frozen margarita. Silke was 25 and from Belgium, and Kenny was 27 (HOORAH!!!) from New York. This was a lovely couple of hours finished off with a duck and rice from a Hawker market down the road. People eat so much later in Singapore and I love it. 

The next morning began with a load of stress. I woke up before my alarm, went to check the time on my phone and it wasn’t switching on. Safe to say I freaked the fuck out. I perhaps took it slightly out of proportion and text Mum in a flap, woke her up from her slumber with my stream of consciousness, neurotically messaged Sam on Instagram and also mine, Mabel and Sam’s group chat. I guess I just wanted to let everybody know that things weren’t going great for me. I was fully convinced I was going to have to go out and buy a new phone, or beg someone at the Apple shop to help me, or just call the whole trip off. I’m just so grateful I’m not a catastrophizer. After an hour spent panicking, realising my spare phone wasn’t unlocked and I’d probably lost all my photos from this trip, the wonderful Mark who works at the hostel rebooted it for me. I just want to clarify that I did OBVIOUSLY try and reboot it, but Mark had the magic touch and I don’t think I’ve ever been so grateful to have my phone. Armed with my working phone and a spring in my step, Kenny and I went on a little food tour. We’d arranged to meet for breakfast the night before, but because of my neurotic start to the day I had told him to go ahead with me, but being the lovely guy he was he’d offered to join me in my trip to the Apple store and help me beg. Anyway, there was no need and our first stop was to Toast Box about a fifteen minute walk away. Kaya toast is a traditional Singaporean breakfast dish, and is basically a toast sandwich filled with butter and Kaya (coconut jam) and is bloody lush. For the sake of trying as much as we could, we also got toast topped with ham, egg and cheese. Kenny was such a lovely guy, very gentle and we had a lot in common, mostly that we were both total flashpackers. He used to work in finance and had quit his job to go travelling. His next stop was South Korea which I was a little jealous of because I’d love to go there, but then I checked myself because I was being an ungrateful little pig. Next up was The Maxwell Centre for the Michelin starred chicken rice dish that I’d heard so much about. Kenny went off to get this while I got us a Popiah which is a thin pancake filled with meat and veg. I also think it had egg in it and it was so yummy. Finding a spot to eat in this Hawker market was a nightmare, it was lunchtime so it was packed and people do this really clever (and annoying) thing where they put something on the table to secure their seat. Be it a tissue, or a lanyard, or a piece of paper. Kenny and I were none the wiser, I’d just assumed people were leaving rubbish everywhere, so we were booted off a few tables before we found a spot next to a man called Jeff who lived locally. While we ate the chicken rice which was DELICIOUS by the way, Jeff started chatting to us. Initially he was talking to us about Singapore, and then the conversation moved on to Buddhism. Jeff was clearly a very spiritual man, and spoke for quite a while about how meditation can open doors in your mind to the unconscious which I totally agree with. It was very fascinating, and part of the reason why Buddhism is so interesting to me is that the Buddha had apparently told people to go and find out what works for them, it was less about control, and more about seeing it for yourself. Sadly Jeff lost me a little bit when he started to talk about gene therapy and Covid 19 vaccinations, but hey, you can’t win ’em all! It was a lovely conversation for the most part, and I was happy to have met him. Kenny dropped me off at the train station and it was time to head to Changi airport for my flight to Phuket. I’d decided I was going to get to the airport about 6 hours early to be safe. Kidding, I wanted to explore Changi airport (best airport in the world!!!!) so I did actually get there 6 hours early. The Jewel’s a part of the airport that is pretty incredible, water falls, spas, a shopping mall and much more. Now I can’t lie here, I actually didn’t explore that much. I didn’t want to traipse around with my backpack as my airline was in a different terminal, a 10 minute bus journey away. Now obviously that isn’t actually far, but I was feeling like a fat sloth so I decided to check my bag in and go and sit and have a pint instead. Never have I ever spent £15 on a pint of beer, until that day. Luckily it was delicious, and I sat at the bar and started this blog. I hadn’t eaten much that day (lol) so I felt pretty pissed after one pint. Lucky for me there was a smoking room in the airport so off I staggered to chain smoke a couple camels. Treated myself to a burger king because I was at an airport and I simply had to, facetimed Maraid and then booked my flight from Bangkok to Siem Reap in a couple of weeks. A productive afternoon I’d say. I arrived in Phuket at about 8pm, wandered over to my hostel and treated myself to a really nutritious ham and cheese toastie from 7/11, followed by a toblerone. My poor insides must have been screaming this day, I ate like an actual pig. Oink oink. 

I woke up this morning and dragged myself out for a run. Managed about 3km before feeling like I was honestly about to collapse. I put it down to the fact it’s 27 degrees and also that I’ve eaten my bodyweight in carbs the last 5 days. This afternoon I’ve got a three hour bus journey to Khao Sok national park which I am very excited to see. I think I am going to try and book onto an overnight tour as they come highly reccomended. 

Another fun-filled part of my journey. Singapore was a blast and it’s safe to say I ate my way around it. It’s been really special to go somewhere I’ve wanted to go for so long and I’ve felt incredibly lucky the last few days. It’s definitely made me remember how much I love cities, the oppurtunities to explore are endless, something I definitely took for granted in London. I miss London actually, what a place. Anyway, I’m rambling. Thanks for reading guys, you know I’d be nothing without my fans!!!

Until next time,

Lily xx